Thursday, June 2nd
Our second day of class instruction at the University of Ghana- Legon began with a PowerPoint presentation from Daniel Kumah, Assistant Lecturer, in the Department of Archeology and Heritage Studies. Afterwards, he took us for a brief tour inside of the university’s archeology museum.
Ghana, formerly known as the Gold Coast, has a population of 27.7 million people. We learned that slavery is still very much an emotional topic and that slavery in Africa existed prior to the arrival of the Europeans. A person could be put into slavery as a:
- pawn slave (payment of security of debt- retained personal rights)
- domestic slave
- slave
As slavery was socially constructed in the United States, “free-ness” was determined by your skin color, even if you were freed you could be re-enslaved. There were 63 slave trade markets in Ghana- Salaga is the most famous slave market. As a twin, one of the interesting things I learned was that twins were once considered a bad omen, and often times one twin would be sold into slavery.
- “Akoa”- servant
- “Awowa”- debt/pawn
- “Donko”- domestic slave
- “Dommum”- war captive
- “Akyere”- slave under capital punishment
Fertility dolls, or Akuaba, (pictured above) are given to women who are unable to conceive. These women must care for these dolls and carry them on their back, as if they are real children, until they are able to conceive.
When a chief or royal of a village dies, they must be present at their own funeral. Funeral day figures/portraits (effigies) are created. To get the image of a person, artists would pray to spirits that the image of the deceased would appear in a bowl or they would borrow the pillow of the deceased and sleep on it for a night. Effigies are not buried with the deceased.
When a child is born, boys are given a bracelet and girls are given beads for her waist. These are used to see if your children are growing and they are believed to give you shape. It would be an insult for one man to tell another, “I know the colors of your wife’s beads.”
After the lecture and archeology museum tour, we visited one of Ghana’s biggest attractions, the Dr. Kwame Nkrumah Memorial.
Dr. Nkrumah led Ghana towards independence from Britain and became the first president in 1957.
At this point in the day I was ready for a nap but was excited about our next activity- a trip to the Accra Art Centre. I didn’t know what to expect but was prepared to be overwhelmed. The second we stepped off of the van we were all immediately swarmed by men who invited us each to their shops to see their wood carvings, bead work, and paintings. We took the time to grab fresh coconut water and chat with the locals.
The young man I spoke to was named Mumin. He told me that he was from northern Ghana and moved to Accra to find work. As a child of the streets he went through primary schooling at an academy, where he was introduced to and fell in love with the arts.
This was our first exposure to the bargaining culture in Ghana which caused a lot of anxiety for many of us. After being bombarded, for a time period that felt like forever, we were warmly embraced and welcomed by all of those same men in the market. They pulled out benches for us to sit and drums for them to beat, and began to sing in unity. It was such a joyful experience that brought me a feeling of happiness I will never forget.
Our last stop for the day (and an amazing surprise) was a visit to the beach. The beach has always been my favorite place to be- the sand below my feet, the loud crashing of the waves, and the smell of the salty Atlantic Ocean.
Today was indeed a good day.